Briggs uses a variety of engine shutdowns, but all work by grounding the primary side of the ignition circuit. For some applications, a remotely mounted lever controls choke engagement, engine rpm, and shutdown through a Bowden cable. Others omit the choke function, which is either automatic or in the form of a primer pump on [...]
This section describes how to replace points and condenser with a Magnetron trigger module. These modules are compatible with most aluminum-block single-cylinder engines with two-legged coil armatures. Certain older engines, many of them iron-block collector’s items, remained in production during the early 1980s when they were modified by the factory for solid-state ignition. Owners of [...]
Test system output with PN 19051 or 19368 as described in the Troubleshooting chapter. Magnetrons need a vigorous pull on the starter cord to generate visible spark. Discrete trigger modules for early models can be replaced for about $20. This was a good feature, since Darlington transistors often fail because of overheating. Resistance readings on [...]
If the coil is outboard of the flywheel and has only one small wire running from it to the kill switch, the device is a Magnetron (Fig. 3-16). Introduced in 1982 and made universal within a year or two, the unit consists of an ignition coil and a transistorized switch triggered by a flywheel magnet. [...]
Table 3-2 lists armature air gaps for all engines under discussion. The reference in the table to two- and three-legged armatures may need clarification. Most magnetos have their coils wound on two-legged, U-shaped armatures. Others used three-legged armatures shaped like the letter E. The narrower the gap, the better the spark. But some clearance must [...]
A DIY mechanic occasionally encounters a magneto-fired engine and needs some idea of how to proceed. Check the flywheel key as described earlier. Next check the condition of the points, which on smaller engines live under the flywheel. Oil in the point housing will defeat ignition and usually enters via a failed crankshaft seal or [...]
The flywheel must be lifted to check the condition of the key and to service magneto contact points and condensers. Disconnect and ground the sparkplug lead to prevent accidental starting. If the engine is equipped with a 12-v electric starter, disconnect the positive (red) battery terminal. Remove the cooling shroud together with the rewind starter. [...]
Spark plug recommendations vary, depending upon the source and the date the information was compiled. As can be best made out, all OHV engines leave the factory with resistor-type Champion RC 12YC plugs. The more durable platinum-tipped version of this plug, standard on I/C engines and available from Briggs dealers as PN 5066, can be [...]
It’s the nature of single-cylinder engines to vibrate. Excessive vibration of the kind that loosens bolts and produces wheel rumble on lawnmowers, and generally makes things unpleasant is almost always the result of a bent crankshaft. But first check that motor hold-down bolts are tight and that there are no fatigue cracks radiating from the [...]
Acrid, black smoke means an overly rich air-fuel mixture. Verify that the choke opens fully, the air filter is clean, and that the carburetor is adjusted correctly. Blue smoke results from oil in the combustion chamber. Check for too much oil in the sump or oil that has been diluted with gasoline. Worn engines may [...]
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