Small Engine Carburetor Repair and Cleaning
Carburetors do not wear out in the accepted sense of the term. Most failures are associated with “soft” parts, such as inlet needles and seats, diaphragms, and gaskets. After long service, the throttle shaft bearings might develop enough play to justify replacement, when such repairs are possible.
Light varnish deposits respond to lacquer thinner and compressed air. Heavier deposits can be removed with Gunk Carburetor Cleaner, which as these products go, appears to be fairly benign. But no chemical cleaner, however aggressive, can undo the effects of water-induced corrosion. White powdery deposits and leached castings mean that the carburetor should be discarded. Sometimes you can get a water-damaged carburetor to work, but it will never be quite right.
Strip off nonmetallic parts, including gaskets, O-rings, elastomer inlet seats, and diaphragms. Leave nylon butterflies in place, since a short exposure to Gunk does not seem to hurt. Nylon-bodied carburetors can also be cleaned, provided immersion is limited to five minutes or so.
As you clean and repair, don’t disturb the following items:
• The throttle and choke butterfly valves.
• The Vacu- and Pulsa-Jet pickup tubes (unless for replacement).
• Any part that resists ordinary methods of disassembly. Threaded, as opposed to permanently installed pressed- fitted parts, have provisions for screwdriver or wrench purchase. But forced removal might do more damage than carburetor cleaner can correct.
• Expansion plugs (unless loose or leaking). Briggs & Stratton carburetor overhaul kits include expansion plugs. If you opt to replace these items, install them with a flat- nosed punch (a piece of wood will do) sized to the plug’s outside diameter (OD). Seal by running a bead of fingernail polish over the joint after installation.
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